Zettels Traum

Zettel’s Dream — Studies on Madness Theatre is a medium that, through language, visual design, and performance, creates space for discourse, social interaction, and – following Aristotle – a catharsis through intense emotions. This visual dimension is at the heart of my study on madness. I engage with the concept of madness and explore its various visual translations. How are intense emotions conveyed and perceived visually? This inquiry resembles archival work that emphasizes physicality and the significance of costume design – ultimately contributing to a sensuous experience for the audience. Additionally, I investigate how these effects can be told through costumes made with minimal materials and without the need for extravagant budgets. The quote “Restless dreams are in reality fleeting moments of madness,” attributed to Voltaire, serves as the starting point for my exploration of the shadowy sides of madness and its metamorphosis into something animalistic – as seen in A Midsummer Night’s Dream. This madness is particularly evident in the character of Bottom, who is transformed into a donkey by Puck. This transformation marks a radical break from reason and opens a space for an intense exploration of the descent into the subconscious and the animalistic. Jan Kott’s reading of A Midsummer Night’s Dream, written about seventy years ago, discarded the romantic view of the play and instead interpreted it as a brutal nightmare. In his analysis, the apparent lightness of the plot is unmasked as deceptive, bringing grotesque and often disturbing elements to the fore. This perspective allows for a reconsideration of madness as it manifests in the tension between dream, transformation, and reality. “The dream of a summer night, or at least the dream that seems to us the most modern and exploratory, is a passage through the animalistic. This is the central theme that connects the three separate plot lines Shakespeare runs parallel in A Midsummer Night’s Dream. Titania and Bottom will undergo this animalistic eroticism in a literal, even visual sense. But the dark zone of this eroticism also infiltrates the quartet of lovers.” — Jan Kott, Shakespeare Our Contemporary, p. 224 “It is worth taking a closer look at the bestiary Shakespeare conjures in A Midsummer Night’s Dream. Under the influence of the Romantic tradition in theatre – unfortunately reinforced by Mendelssohn’s music – the forest in the play has come to seem like yet another repetition of Arcadia. In reality, it is more a forest inhabited by devils and vampires, where witches and sorceresses could easily find everything they need for their craft.” — Jan Kott, p. 225 “The scene between Titania and the donkey-transformed Bottom is often played humorously. But if we can speak of humor here at all, it is only in the English sense of the word. I believe it’s much more of a humour noir, cruel and scatological, as one often finds in Swift. The slender, lyrical Titania yearns for animalistic love. Puck and Oberon call the transformed Bottom a monster. The delicate and sweet Titania drags this monster to bed, almost forcefully, almost violently. This is the lover she wanted. This is the lover she longed for. Only she could never admit it – not even to herself. The dream freed her from inhibition. The poetic Titania, who does not stop chirping about flowers, rapes the monstrous donkey.” — Jan Kott, p. 227 The term “madness” appears explicitly in A Midsummer Night’s Dream in various places: OBERON: I wonder if Titania be awaked; Then, what it was that next came in her eye, Which she must dote on in extremity. THESEUS: The lunatic, the lover and the poet Are of imagination all compact: One sees more devils than vast hell can hold— That is the madman. The lover, all as frantic, Sees Helen’s beauty in a brow of Egypt. The poet’s eye, in fine frenzy rolling, Doth glance from heaven to earth, from earth to heaven... In its older usage, “madness” referred to a state of mental illness accompanied by delusions. More broadly, it describes behavior perceived as abnormal or extreme. Today, the word is no longer used clinically, but it still denotes extraordinary, often intense emotional states. Thus, it’s more open and flexible than one might assume. For me, it is even an artistic term – tied to darker, surreal elements. Yet the historical weight of its meaning still lingers like a shadow. I chose to document various approaches to transformation in photo series, each consisting of five images. Limiting each to five photos allows both extremes and the metamorphosis process to be captured at a glance. The donkey is often seen today as a symbol of foolishness and clumsiness. Kott, however, disagrees: “Bottom is ultimately transformed into a donkey. But in the nightmare of this summer night, the donkey does not symbolize stupidity. From antiquity to the Renaissance, the donkey was attributed with the greatest potency, and among all four-legged creatures, it was believed to have the longest and hardest member.” — Jan Kott, p. 227 For this reason, I use black textile tape in Series 1 and 5. Its use as a binding element evokes clear associations with bondage and fetish. At the same time, madness and mental illness are often linked to the straitjacket used for physical restraint. In this way, my series merges the themes of sexuality and madness. Inspiration for my work came not only from literature but also from visual and performative influences. A major impulse was the Japanese dance theatre Butoh. Butoh combines elements of expressive dance with avant-garde aesthetics. The dancers often move slowly and deliberately, their motions distorted and intensely physical – making inner states visible. This aesthetic is rooted in a radical exploration of pain, darkness, and transformation – themes that are central to my own work. Butoh’s minimalist yet intense gestures offer a unique inspiration for portraying madness by turning the internal outward and emphasizing the animalistic. The white body paint often used in Butoh creates a sense of estrangement and erases the human layer – an effect I incorporate into Series 7, 8, and 9. In visual art, madness is often expressed through the face. When we think of madness in painting, it is impossible to ignore Francis Bacon. His self-portraits – marked by distorted perspective, anatomical deformation, and expressive use of color – create a surreal experience of madness. I reflect this in Series 7, 8, and 9, using color and facial expression to depict animalistic madness. A wooden pallet serves as the physical foundation for Series 1 through 4. It marks and limits the three-dimensional space in which I move while using a self-timer to photograph myself. At the same time, it creates an additional level and functions as a stage – “the boards that mean the world.” What emotions do we want to use to reach the audience? When we talk about intense emotions, we don’t necessarily mean pleasant ones. Another key foundation is the Theatre of Cruelty, a concept developed by Antonin Artaud. This form of theatre centers on the raw, often disturbing intensity of human emotion and breaks with traditional storytelling. Its goal is to shock and transform the audience through physical and emotional intensity. These principles influence my studies by pushing the boundaries of visual expression and opening new paths to experience extreme states like madness. How far can this study go? With each step, I discover new ways of visually representing madness. How extreme can these studies become? And at what point does extreme imagery become mere provocation? These are boundaries I aim to explore in future projects or continuations of this study. Might this approach also help explore other concepts, emotions, and the diversity of their visual translations? These studies emerged as a self-study; I occupy all positions myself. I aimed to create a self-staging character and foster a certain intimacy. The studies have never been realized in a live performance. The next step would be to bring them to the stage – to evaluate their final impact and see which elements succeed or fail in a live theatrical context. A crucial question that arose during this process was: What must a costume tell – and what can it tell? With what reduced means can it work – like tape or a sweater draped into the shape of a donkey’s head? Especially in times when the performing arts face budgetary constraints, this question becomes all the more relevant.

Max Löffler



Application

BA (Bachelor of Arts)

Application period:
October 15 – November 15 for the summer semester

Admission requirements:
❶ Proof of artistic aptitude
❷ For international applicants: sufficient German language skills (For application German language certificate at level B1 and for enrollment German language certificate at level B2)

Duration of studies and degree awarded:
Standard period of study: 6 semesters, 180 credit points
Degree: Bachelor of Arts (BA)

MA (Master of Arts)

Application period:
October 15 – November 15 for the summer semester

Admission requirements:
❶ A university degree in the Bachelor’s program in Costume Design at the Berlin University of the Arts or in an equivalent program at another university
❷ Proof of artistic aptitude
❸ German language skills at level B2 (CEFR)

Duration of studies and degree awarded:
Standard period of study: 4 semesters, 120 credit points
Degree: Master of Arts (MA)

Your application – Step by step

https://www.udk-berlin.de/bewerbung/bewerbungsguide/kostuembild-bachelor/
https://www.udk-berlin.de/bewerbung/bewerbungsguide/kostuembild-master/

Admissions Counseling for Bachelor’s and Master’s Programs

Admissions Counseling for everyone interested on September 18, 2026, at 10 a.m.
Register at j.ress@udk-berlin.de

Faculty

Prof. Beatrix von Pilgrim
Head of Studies (Interim)

stage designer, visual artist, creates theatrical spaces and costumes for theater productions and performances, works in the fields of visual arts, film, video and light installations.
Ateliers in Berlin/Brunswick/Genoa.

http://www.bvpilgrim.com/
bvpilgrim(at)udk- berlin.de

Lea Søvsø
Film Costume Design Professor

Lea Sövsö will take over as director of the two costume design programs effective October 1, 2026.

Lea Søvsø, born 1982 in Daenmark. Lives and works as a costume designer and performance artsit in Berlin. Sie studied costume design at the udk under Florence von Gerkan and was a guest student for fine arts under Hito Steyerl. Since 2007 she works freelance for theater and film and realizes projects with She She Pop, Hito Steyerl, the musictheater Kollektiv Hauen und Stechen, Ari Benjamin Meyers, Amir Reza Koohestani and Julia Langhof ect. Besides that her artistic practice also includes performances and exhibitions at institutions such as the Neuer Berliner Kunstverein and the Kunst-Werke Berlin. Other works have been presented at venues including the Academie of Science in Berlin-Brandenburg, the Kino Arsenal (Berlin) and the Beton Salon (Paris).

leasovso@gmail.com
https://www.leasovso.de/

Dr. Julia Burde
Cultural History of Clothing

In addition to her work as a costume and set designer (opera and theater), Julia Burde began teaching cultural history of clothing in 1995. She currently teaches at the Berlin University of the Arts (UdK), the Stuttgart State Academy of Art and Design (ABK), and the University of Applied Sciences and Arts in Hanover. In 2019, Julia Burde’s dissertation on the straightening of the waistline in 19th-century men’s fashion was published. She has also published articles on film costumes, dandy caricatures, historical fashion mannequins, and the history of theater costumes

Julia.burde(at)t-online.de

Vivienne Waneck
Experimental technique

Vivienne Waneck studied costume design at the UdK Berlin. Together with five other costume and stage designer she is part of a Workshop collective. They design and make costumes, spaces, objects and puppets for theatre and opera productions, as well as for film and advertisements. Over the last few years they made projects for the Salzburger Festspiele, the Deutsche Oper Berlin, the Staatsoper Hamburg, the Staatstheater Stuttgart, Hamburger Bahnhof, Humboldt Forum and many more places.
v.waneck@gmail.com
www.werkstattkollektiv.com

Christian Schiebe
Drawing

Christian Schiebe works as a visual artist and curator for various exhibition formats.

mail@christian-schiebe.de
www.christian-schiebe.de

Charlotte Pistorius
Fundamental

Charlotte Pistorius works as a freelance costume and stage designer. She studied visual arts at HfbK Hamburg and costume design in Berlin at UdK under Florence von Gerkan. She collaborated with artist from the independent theatre scene, municipal/ state theatres and in international contexts. Charlotte Pistorius teaches the introductory courses in the bachelor’s program in the summer semester of 2026.

c.pistorius@udk-berlin.de
http://www.charlottepistorius.com/

Eva Rach
sewing workshop

As a trained seamstress she has aquired a lot of knowledge since 2002 in various different fields of the craft: from costumes to accessories and bridal wear, through children’s clothing, custom-made garments, and festival attire, She is temporarily leading the sewing workshop.

eva.rach(at)gmx.de

Zana Bosnjak

As a stage and costume designer, she works at the intersection of space, image and performative action. Her work on the Staatstheater Stuttgart an the opera Halle in cooperation with Falk Richter and Nele Lindemann, among others, as well as film projects and exhibition design, define a visual-dramaturgical practice. She is interestes in how scenografy functions as perception architecture and how it evolves through media levels.

@zanabosnjak.com
https://zanabosnjak.com

Ute Freund

Ute Freund is a freelance cinematographer based in Berlin. She makes experimental art films, documentaries and feature films. She studied art history and worked as a camera assistant before completing her studies in cinematography at the Hamburg Media School. Since 2009, she has been teaching film and visual design on a regular basis in various settings.

utefreund@gmail.com
https://cinematographinnen.net/en/ute-freund/

Anna Bergel

In the summer semester 2026 Anna Bergel leads the job oriented workshop “Get started” and “Aufführungsanalyse”. Anna Bergel was at first a dancer, before she studied Theatre- cultural studies and Journalism at the University Leipzig. She is a artistic and academic staff member at the Departement of stage design at UdK Berlin and teaches “Performance Analysis” and “Project management”. Additionally she works as a artistic production leader and dramaturg for various Theater and dance companies.

a.bergel@udk-berlin.de

Birte Meier

As a makeup artist, Birte Meier has been offering makeup workshops for both the bachelor’s and
master’s programs for years. These workshops focus on the respective
semester’s theme while also covering the fundamentals of makeup artistry.

birtemeier@hotmail.de

Prof. Renata Helker,
Film scholar

Renata Helker. Film scholar, author, and curator. Studied theatre and film studies, German language, and philosophy at Freie Universität Berlin. Honorary professor at the University of Television and Film Munich. Also teaches at the Film University Babelsberg Konrad Wolf, the Berlin University of the Arts, and the German Film and Television Academy Berlin (DFFB). Research areas and main fields of work: film and acting aesthetics, queer cinema, documentary film, and film history. Publications include: Die Tschechows – Wege in die Moderne (2005) and Carl Raddatz – Der melancholische Realist (2018). Based in Berlin.

Renata-helker(at)t-online.de

Luise Würth

Luise Würth (she/her/no pronouns) is a dramaturg, curator, and professor. Queerness, anti-ableistic praqtices and intersectional Feminism in art and work process play a huge role in Luises Work between state and independent theatre scene. Since 2023 she co-leads the Berlin model project «Fairstage». There, Luise advocates for fair and non-discriminatory working conditions at the theater.

m.wuerth@udk-berlin.de
https://fairstage.berlin/

Anton Fischer
Dramaturg

Anton Fischer studied
dramatury and aesthetics in Leipzig and Frankfurt am Main. Since 2024 he has been studying playwriting at the Berlin University of A rts. His play «Und weiter Nichts.» has received the Ingeborg-Springenschmid Prize. Anton Fischer was nominated for the Retzhofer Drama Prize in 2025. His Plays have been invited to the DramatikerInnenfestival Graz and zum Langen Wochenende der Neuen Dramatik in the theatre Münster, among others. Since August 2025 he has been represented by henschel SCHAUSPIEL. Anna Schlote and Anton Fischer will work during the summer semester of 2026 as a dramaturgy duo with the students on the semester theme “Nearly nothing” and will also accompany the performance during the tour days in July 2026.

Anna Schlote
Dramaturg

Anna Schlote studied dramaturgy and aesthetics at the University of Music and
Theatre in Leipzig and at Goethe University in Frankfurt am Main. She has worked as
a dramaturg on theater, short film, and audio drama projects. As part of the research project “The Art of Counter-Investigation,” she works at the Institute for Social Research. In 2025, she worked as a research assistant in the Department of Philosophy/Aesthetics at the Offenbach University of Art and Design and taught at the University of Music and Theatre Leipzig. Anna Schlote and Anton Fischer will work during the summer semester of 2026 as a dramaturgy duo with the students on the semester theme “Nearly nothing” and will also accompany the performance during the tour days in July 2026.

schlote.anna@gmx.de

Student Employees

Momo Reß
j.ress_(at)udk-berlin.de

Employees before summersemester 2026

Prof. Anette Guther (Film costume designer)
Stefan Tigges (Dramaturg)
Karolina Serafin (Video-Projection)
Lottie Sebes (Soundartist)
Sara Migliorati (Specialised in historical corsets)
Ben Tyrell/Christian Dieckmann (Patina experts)
Ella Tümpel (student employee)


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